The crested gecko or Rhacodactylus Ciliatus, also referred to as "eyelash gecko" or "crestie," is a small, prehensile-tailed gecko which originates in New Caledonia, a group of islands nearly 750 miles off the east coast of Australia. The climate there is moderate enough to make this gecko a fairly easy first-timer gecko, in many ways that keeping a reptile can be considered easy. Often requiring no external heating, housing for these animals can be fairly simple to set up. Their soft feet and "eyelashes" along with the beautiful patterning current breeders are experimenting with make these geckos an eye-catching addition to any beginner's home or hobbyist's collection.
As of 2012, a recent publication has been put about to re-classify the crested gecko as Correlophus Ciliatus. More information will be added as this publication is peer-reviewed; in the meantime, understand that the terms Rhacodactylus Ciliatus and Correlophus Ciliatus may be used to describe the same animal.
Rhacodactylus, loosely translated, means "spine-toes," as these geckos' toes look as though they bend backward and up as they walk across flat surfaces. Ciliatus, roughly, means "eyelash," a name given for obvious reasons. The crested gecko has not been in captivity for very long, in comparison to many other reptiles. In 1994, they were rediscovered in the wild after having been thought extinct. Therefore, we do not yet have an exact average lifespan for these animals, but it is thought to be between 15 and 20 years with proper care.
WEIGHT: An adult gecko can weigh on average 40-45 grams with a tail, though some may get a fair bit larger than this, up into the 60-70 gram range. An average length for an adult from snout to tail tip is about 8 inches (20.3 cm). I strive for healthy-bodied geckos that do not look exceptionally "fluffy" or "obese," as obesity in geckos can have the same drawbacks that it does in other species, affecting overall health and reproduction. It is very important not to get into the mindset that more grams equals more health.
FIRED UP.WHEN? The crested gecko is nocturnal meaning can see in the dark and sleep during the day and active at night. While the wild crested gecko comes in many different colors and patterns, after much selective breeding, captive crested geckos have proven out many different morphs (color and pattern variations), and more are being brought forward every year. These geckos also have the ability to change their colors, or the intensity of their colors, to some extent. Generally, during the day while they sleep, they have a tendency to stay a light or muted color, and during the night when they are active, their colors become more bold (also known as being "fired up"). I have noticed that mine especially become stunning when I mist their enclosures at night or when they are exposed to UVB light. Their toes have "sticky" lamellae which allow them to adhere to many surfaces.
DON’T DRY OUT, EYES! They do not have eyelids, but clean their eyes with their tongues. As a crested gecko grows, it will shed its skin. When a crested gecko sheds, if humidity allows, the gecko will begin peeling its skin off by licking the loose skin away from the snout area, and then will chew it or rub it back off of the rest of the body. You will not often find skin in the enclosure after a shed, as the gecko will normally eat the entire thing. The shedding process can be very quick, and many first-time owners have written me concerned that their geckos are not shedding. If you don't pay attention to your gecko for an hour one night, you might miss it!
NO TAIL. OK OR NO? A Crestie can use its tail to wrap around branches (or your fingers) to slow its descent or help it balance itself. The tip of the crested gecko's tail has small ridges, a bit like a smaller version of its toe ridges, to help further slow itself should it be moving downward on a branch. This useful tail, however, is not always a permanent fixture on the gecko. If it is bitten by a predator or another gecko, or it is just startled by its handler, the gecko can drop its tail. The tail will continue wiggling for some time after it is dropped, which could possibly distract a would-be predator while the gecko makes its escape. Unlike some other lizards, the crested gecko will never grow its tail back. Unfortunately, some people believe that this lowers the value of a gecko, but I have several tailless geckos that I find quite endearing as they are. The lack of a tail does not change their personalities, only their appearance!
JUMPY MUCH! Crested geckos are mainly arboreal, meaning, they like to be able to climb. They are also fairly good at jumping, which means when you handle one, you should always hold it in a safe place where it will not have far to fall (I, don't stand over your hard kitchen floor with your gecko sitting on your shoulder). After a while, you may get used to the stance a gecko will take before it leaps, but they don't always give you that warning!
TOUCHY: Many crested geckos tolerate handling fairly well. I've found the best way to get one into my hand is to lay a hand flat down in front of one, and gently touch its back or rear legs with my other hand to encourage it to move forward. A gecko might be less frightened by this than seeing a giant "claw" coming down and trying to pick it off its branch. Once a gecko is in your hand, you can allow it to walk from one hand to another if it wishes. I handle my geckos for a couple of minutes perhaps once every two or three days; in that time, I check their eyes, nose, grip, and vent to make sure they appear healthy. Keep in mind that while a gecko may tolerate handling, that doesn't mean that he likes it, and it still may be somewhat traumatic for him, so I do not recommend handling for much longer than ten to fifteen minutes at a time. Above all, always keep in mind that a crested gecko is a reptile, and as much as we would love to form bonds with them as we might with a pet dog, their minds work differently from a mammal's. If you want a pet you can snuggle or cuddle, please consider something fuzzy!
The Crested Gecko was thought to be extinct as recently as 1993. They were rediscovered in 1994 on the Isle of Pines after a tropical storm. Some of the newly found geckos were sent to Europe and the US for breeding. They can lose their tail as other geckos but unlike others, they do not grow them back. Crested Geckos can live a long time, 7 – 10 years or more. They can no longer be imported from New Caledonia, but they are now one of the most widely kept and bred species of gecko in the world so you should have no trouble finding one to buy if this is your choice of pet.
FOOD: Their food is a powder you buy and mix up (see resources below), give it to them daily(or rather nightly, as they are most active at night). They also eat crickets, mealworms, cockroaches (not those found in the wild!) and flies. They do need to be kept more humid than the other animals listed, however they do not usually require heat, as room temperature (65-80) is the perfect temperature to keep them at. If your home gets too HOT during the summer do not keep these animals. No UV light is required for their enclosure. Some people recommend fruit flavored baby food for them, but the general consensus is that there is not enough nutrition in the baby food for your Crested Gecko. Stick with the powder and other insects intended for reptile food.
BABIES: Babies are small but hardy and do well housed in 5-10 gallon aquariums with screen lids. The babies will eat small crickets or powder food after their first shed. Crested Geckos can produce 10-20 clutches each year of 2 eggs each. They become sexually mature at 8-12 months and if fed well and kept at the proper temperatures (65-80 F) will produce.
About Crested Geckos: Crested geckos reach an adult length of around 7-9 inches (including their prehensile tails). They come in a wide array of colors and markings (morphs). They get their name from the fringed crest that runs from over their eyes down their necks and backs, though the size of the crest varies. They have specialized toe pads that allow them to effortlessly move along vertical surfaces, and their prehensile~it can hang off your finger with its tail, tails add to their agility. They are also good jumpers.
Substrate: The substrate for crested geckos should be something that retains moisture to aid in humidity levels, such as coconut fiber bedding, moss, or peat, though paper or paper towels can be used as well. Crested geckos are somewhat prone to ingesting substrate while hunting; if this is the case for yours, use moss (either alone or over another substrate like coconut fiber) or paper towels. Paper towels are recommended for juveniles as they are more likely to accidentally swallow substrate.
Accessories: Crested geckos need room to climb, so provide a mix of branches, driftwood, cork bark, bamboo, and vines at a variety of heights and orientations. Add a variety of silk and/or sturdy live plants as they will hide in the plants for cover. A small shallow water dish can be provided, with fresh water daily, though they will likely prefer to drink water droplets from leaves (mist the tank every evening, at least -- see the humidity section).
Temperature: A daytime temperature gradient of 72-80 F (22-26.5 C) should be provided for crested geckos, with a drop at night time to 65-75 F (18-24 C). Crested geckos get stressed at higher temperatures. A low wattage red night-time bulb makes a good heat source. Do not rest a heat source right the top of the tank, as these climbing geckos could get too close and burns could result.
Lighting for Crested Geckos: Crested geckos are nocturnal so do not need special UV lighting. However, some experts feel providing low levels of UV lighting is still beneficial to their overall health (one must make sure the enclosure does not overheat and that the geckos can hide from the light if desired). A red night time bulb allows viewing when they are most active as well as providing some heat.
Humidity: Crested geckos need a moderate to high humidity level; aim for 60-80 percent relative humidity (get a hygrometer and monitor levels as humidity is very important). Provide humidity with regular misting with warm filtered water. Depending on your cage set up you may need to mist the cage a few times a day to keep the humidity up. Always make sure the cage is well-misted at night when the geckos are most active. Crested geckos will likely drink from water droplets left from the mist.
Feeding: Feed in the evening; juveniles should be feed daily but adults do not need to be fed every day (3 times a week is recommended by many keepers). A commercial crested gecko diet is usually well-accepted and is the easiest way to ensure a well-balanced, nutritious diet. It can be supplemented with crickets and other prey insects (roaches, waxworms, silk worms; mealworms are best avoided due to their hard exoskeleton) for variety and to allow the gecko to exercise its hunting instincts. Any insects fed should be slightly smaller than the space between the gecko's eyes, and should be gut loaded prior to feeding, and dusted with a calcium/D3 supplement.
If you can't get a commercial diet, you can feed crested geckos a combination of insect prey items and fruit, though it is more difficult to feed a balanced diet this way. The insect portion of the diet can be made up mainly of crickets, with the occasional addition of other insects for variety. Prey should be smaller than the space between the gecko's eyes, and should be gut loaded prior to feeding, and dusted with a calcium/D3 supplement two to three times a week and a multivitamin once a week. Feed as much prey at one time as the gecko eagerly eats. Fruit can be fed several times a week as well.
BREEDING: Make sure you do a lot of research before you decide to get into breeding your geckos! You must be positive that you have a back-up plan in place in case you run out of room to keep all of your hatchlings. Gecko babies are not as easy to rehome as kittens or puppies - many animal shelters will not take them, and most pet stores are not allowed to buy stock outside of their predetermined sources. Read up on how to become a reptile seller or trader if that is your goal!
It is also a breeder's job to think about the ramifications of their breeding projects. If you own a sub-par or even defective gecko (perhaps your gecko's crests are very small, or it has an overbite or underbite), I recommend that you think twice about breeding that animal. It can still be a wonderful pet, but all pets do not need to be bred. The gene pool in captivity is regulated entirely by you and your fellow breeders - as long as we are "playing God" with their genetics, we should be mindful of possible outcomes. Would you want to buy a sub-par gecko for a future breeding project? If you wouldn't, why would anybody else? Make sure that any geckos you plan to breed are healthy and excellent representatives of their species.
I recommend that a female gecko weigh no less than 35 grams and be over 1 year old (for me, closer to 2 or 3; keep in mind however that geckos do grow at different rates depending on diet, temperatures, and genetics) before being introduced to a male for breeding. The male should be around the same size as the female, though in many cases the male being slightly smaller has not caused problems during breeding. The male does, however, need to have enough mass to be able to grip the female.
Sometimes a male and female might seem uninterested in each other, but often, mating takes place at night when you're sleeping. During copulation, a male will grab the female by her crests with his mouth and will make contact to her vent with one of his hemipenes. You may hear some "squeaking" sounds as they vocalize to each other. This act looks rough, and sometimes a gecko may receive bite-marks from mating, but they generally heal well if the enclosure is kept clean.
If the mating was successful, your female will be gravid - not pregnant, as pregnancy indicates a live-bearing animal, not an egg-layer. About thirty days, give or take, after successful copulation, a female will look to lay two eggs in a soft substrate. If you are making use of a paper towel or similar substrate, you will want to provide the female with an egg-laying box. In my experience, it's a good idea to provide a lay box for any female over about 20 grams, as they can lay infertile eggs as well, and the box gives the gecko a comfortable enclosed space to dig and lay. I prefer to use a wide Gladware or Ziploc type plastic container with many ventilation holes and a little hatch for the female to crawl into. You can use many different kinds of substrate in this laybox, though I prefer a mix of very slightly moist sifted sphagnum peat moss and organic soil - if it still clumps together a lot, it is too wet - "just right" feels damp but still fluffy.
Gross: Don’t be afraid if you see something red or pink hanging from the male's vent after copulation. This is the hemipene, and he will often lick himself until it fits back into the vent. If you see that your gecko is having trouble getting his hemipene back into his vent (a couple of hours after copulation), keep an eye on it and try to help keep it from drying out - some have recommended using sugar water or honey. You may need to call your exotics veterinarian if your gecko has issues re-inverting his parts.
Laying: The female will often use her head and limbs to shovel as she creates a "nest" to lay in. She may spend all night, or even several nights, digging and burying herself in the substrate before she actually lays. Eventually she will bury the eggs in the substrate. Don't worry if you see your gecko fully or partially submerged in the soil - they can generally breathe quite well even if their heads are covered in the substrate. Pulling your female out if you see her head-first in the soil can disrupt her laying schedule.
I have read several sources advising to stay away from coco fiber/coir as a laybox and incubator substrate. At best, the material may stain the eggs, and it is thought that there may be a chance that the materials may leech into the eggs and harm them. I have not experimented with coir, so I cannot confirm or deny this claim, but I prefer to play it safe. After eggs are laid, you may notice that your female has a bit of a "deflated" look anterior to the rear limbs, where she may have been a bit pear-shaped before, so that is something else to keep an eye out for if you're unsure if your gecko is gravid (carrying eggs).
Eggs: A healthy female can lay a clutch of two eggs every thirty days or so. Viable eggs will generally look bright white all around - though if your eggs come out looking a little yellowish, it's recommended that you don't throw them out unless you're 100% sure they're infertile. Eggs can be incubated in a separate container; I prefer to use aquatic planting soil or APS as an incubation material. The APS should be rinsed thoroughly or even boiled ahead of time, and then allowed to sit in a sieve for a few minutes until it is cooled and no longer dripping. Aquatic planting soil can be found at many plant nurseries where koi pond supplies are carried. Use your finger to make indentations in the APS that will fit the eggs. The eggs can be set inside so they are only one-third to one-half submerged beneath the incubation material. An incubation container can have tiny holes punched into it to provide air for the eggs and eventual hatchlings, or, if you prefer to follow my methods, you can try it without the holes and just open the lid once a week for a few minutes to vent in new air. Just be wary of checking the container often once you know incubation time is nearing an end, so you can catch hatchlings and make sure they have enough air.
Gecko eggs are not like birds' eggs. They do not need to be rotated; they should be left with the same side facing up in their incubator through their entire incubation period. You can prevent shifting by making a small pencil mark gently on the top surface of the egg. In my experience, eggs will still hatch if you have an "accident" and they get bumped, so please do not panic if that happens; just keep in mind that in nature, the eggs would be buried under soil and left facing one way, so it may be developmentally helpful to keep from moving the eggs too much.
Incubation: Incubation can go from around 65 days at room temperature, to all the way up to 120 days and beyond. If you keep your home on the cooler side, your eggs may take longer to hatch, but this is thought to be beneficial to the growing embryo, as it has time to absorb all of the egg's nutrients and may be stronger when it does finally hatch. In my experience, eggs incubated on the hotter side, at around 78 F+, seem to hatch out smaller with less-developed crests and tend to be a bit more flighty upon hatching. I find that about 70 to 72 F is a decent incubation temperature.
You can check to see if your eggs are viable by "candling" them. Take the egg into a dark room and hold it up to a very bright LED-type light. If you see a small red circle at the top of the egg, chances are, the egg is good. This red circle will develop quickly as the first week goes on, so if you didn't see anything the first day, try again in a few days. Keep in mind that the less you handle the eggs, the better, if for no other reason than to avoid accidents, so taking them out every day to candle them isn't a great idea.
Generally, the two eggs in a clutch may hatch within an hour to within a day of each other. However, it is not unheard of for a clutch to hatch around a week apart. Please note, often first-time laying females have poorly calcified eggs, or they only lay one egg instead of two. As long as she is at an appropriate weight, is feeding well on a good diet, and shows no signs of illness, this should not be a huge concern. Usually a healthy gecko will get it "right" around her second or third clutch.
PROBLEMS: One problem to be aware of before attempting breeding is egg-binding, or your gecko becoming unable to pass eggs. If a female is undersized, does not find a suitable laying place, or there are other health issues present including a problem with calcium, she may retain the eggs. The eggs may continue to grow and possibly fuse together inside of the female's body, making it difficult or impossible for the eggs to be passed. If your breeding female's sides start looking bloated, or she becomes very lethargic and ceases or slows in food consumption, keep a close eye on her, but do not bother her overly much, as that can stress her out even more and prevent laying attempts. If you are expecting eggs and they are very long in coming, it may be worth your time to get your female checked at a reptile-knowledgeable veterinarian's office to find out if the eggs can be safely passed. Once a gecko has developed fully inside the egg, it will break out using a pair of "egg teeth" developed solely for this purpose. Some have claimed that they are lost with the initial shed, but I have observed them (less noticeably) after this shed.
When hatchlings come out of the egg, they may stick their heads out and just rest for a while. Just let them come out on their own! They may take a few minutes or around an hour to fully emerge. Once they come out, be careful, as they can move very quickly. I keep two hatchlings of the same size in a small Critter Keeper-type enclosure, with a very small bamboo branch and fake foliage for the first month. Their water and food dishes should be very shallow to prevent drowning, and their enclosure should be misted gently both in the morning and at night. While you can offer food right away, it has been my experience that most newly-hatched geckos do not show interest in eating for at least the first few days, so do not panic if you don't find food missing immediately. I personally do not recommend that you try to hand-feed the newly-hatched geckos, as it is incredibly easy for a small gecko to breathe in some of the food. Think about how things happen in nature - their parents would not bring them food. They will find the food on their own when they're ready! Other than that, their care is similar to an adult crested gecko.
A female gecko should be encouraged to take a break from breeding for a few consecutive months every year. One mating with a male can cause a female to lay fertile eggs for several months as their bodies can store sperm for some time, so if you want your female to stop laying, you may try a few different things. You may remove the male from her enclosure, attempt to bring the temperatures down to the high 60's, reduce the length of time your geckos receive light during the day, or a combination of these. The cooler weather and shorter photo-period will generally cause the gecko to stop laying eggs. Most breeders use the winter time when temperatures are naturally chillier to "cool" their geckos. During the cooling period, a female can rebuild stores of fat and calcium, and make her ready and healthy to go for the next season. Here in the northern part of the state of Illinois, my female geckos tend to stop laying in September, or October at the latest, without my interference, and generally pick up laying again in February or March of the following season. If you live in a warmer climate, you may need to take measures to make sure your females get adequate rest.
Crested gecko genetics are still being figured out; one may cross a dalmatian-spotted gecko with another dalmatian and their offspring might turn out to be a tiger-striped individual with few or no spots at all. It's exciting to see what your breeding pairs return!
The Crested Gecko has hair-like projections found above the eyes, resembling eyelashes. It has a wedge shaped head and a crest that runs from each eye to the tail. The toes and the tip of the semi-prehensile tail are covered in small hairs called setae. Each seta is divided into hundreds of smaller (approximately 200 nanometers in diameter) hairs called spatulae. It is believed these structures exploit the weak van der Waals force to help the gecko climb on most solid surfaces. The toes have small claws which aid in climbing surfaces to which their toes cannot cling. Once they lose their tail it will not grow back.
MORPHS: The Crested Gecko has many naturally occurring color groups, some of which include: grey, brown, red, orange, white and yellow of various shades. They have variable markings, which include spots, straight stripes, and tiger-like stripes. The markings and coloration are not geographic indicators; offspring of the same clutch may display differing coloration and markings. The colors are brighter and more prominent at night.
The Crested Gecko has distinct structural morphs in head size and crest abundancy. Geckos with a head length less than 1.3 times its width are considered "crowned" Crested Geckos. They can vary in the amount and size of the crests; some have crests that extend to the base of the tail and some lack crests on one side of their body.
Unlike most species of gecko, this species is an omnivore, also considered frugivorous, feeding on a variety of insects and fruit. They are often compared to the Leopard Gecko in temperament, often liking being held by their owners and aren't overly aggressive.
Captivity: Though the export of wild Crested Geckos is now prohibited, biologists exported several specimens for breeding and study before the practice was outlawed. From these specimens, different breeding lines were established both in Europe and the United States. The Crested Gecko is now one of the most widely kept and bred species of gecko in the world.
These geckos can be very long lived. While they have not been kept in captivity long enough for a definitive life span determination, they have been kept for 15–20 years or more. They can be kept healthy on a diet consisting solely of a crested gecko supplement such as Repashy's Crested Gecko Diet but will also benefit from an occasional feeding of live crickets or B. Dubia roaches. Fruit flavored baby food was previously thought to be a good supplement until further research proved that it does not contain the proper nutrients required by this type of animal and can therefore result in Metabolic Bone Disease and other permanent deformities.
Breeding: Little is known about the wild reproductive behavior of Crested Geckos, but in captivity they breed readily, with the female laying two eggs which hatch 60–150 days after they are laid. Eggs are generally laid at four week intervals as long as the fat and calcium reserves of the female are still at healthy levels. Crested Geckos have two small sacs for calcium on the roof of their mouths. If an egg laying female does not have enough calcium her sac will be depleted, and she can suffer from calcium deficiency. This can lead to a calcium crash where the female appears shaky or wobbly, lethargic, has a lack of appetite, and can even result in death.Eggs laid by a female whose calcium reserves are low occasionally exhibit signs of metabolic bone disease, such as an under bite, or a kinked or wavy tail.
It is undetermined whether heat plays a role in determining the sex of the embryo, as it can with other gecko species. Newly hatched Crested Geckos will generally not eat until after they shed their skin for the first time, relying on the remains of their yolk sack for nutrition.
A female crested only has to mate with a male once in order to lay 2 eggs every 4–6 weeks for upwards of 8–10 months. Retaining of sperm ensures the eggs the female lays remain fertile throughout her breeding cycle. After those 8–10 months, females in the wild go through a "cooling" cycle, usually prompted by slight temperature changes in winter, which help her regain lost nutrients from egg-laying. In captivity this cooling cycle must be controlled or the female will lay eggs continuously, even to death.
As with any living creature, it's important to know ahead of time what to look for in a healthy crested gecko. A gecko in optimal health will have clear, bright eyes which are equal in size. Its vent (the "butt") will be clean. Its waste will generally have a whitish or clear liquid section with a more solid "pellet" of brown stool. Its tail will be straight without sharp curves or kinks when at rest. Its skin will be free of mites and open wounds, and it will ideally not have random pieces of shed stuck on its body.
It is important that you research veterinarians in your area before committing to a reptile pet. Many vets who are excellent with your dog or cat may never have seen a crested gecko, much less treated one, so it's important to look for someone who knows their way around exotic animals. You may start your search for a reputable exotics veterinarian at HerpVetConnection.com.
If you are introducing a new gecko to a previously-started collection, a period of quarantine is essential. Quarantine should be, at absolute minimum, thirty days, though longer is very highly recommended - I tend to shoot for 2-3 months of quarantine. In this time, you should take precaution to not handle your new gecko before you handle your original stock; if you do, wash your hands thoroughly. If possible, the new gecko should be kept in a separate room and fed after you take care of all of your other animals. During quarantine, you can monitor the new gecko for health issues and watch to make sure it is feeding normally and leaving healthy droppings.
A small scale which measures to the nearest tenth of a gram is a good investment toward the health of your gecko; when used once or twice a month; this will help monitor your gecko's growth and help identify any sudden weight loss, which can be a sign of a larger problem.
Things to watch out for: If your gecko has dropped its tail, there may be a small amount of blood present. You can help your gecko heal well from a tail drop by keeping its enclosure immaculate if you are keeping him on paper towels. In the case of using a naturalistic substrate, it may be worth it to remove a gecko which has recently dropped its tail to a paper-towel-lined enclosure for a week or two, to give the tail "nub" time to heal cleanly.
An incomplete shed, or shed skin which was not removed by the gecko, can cause constriction on digits and the tail. If you find that your gecko is having issues with shedding, you may be keeping the enclosure either too dry, or too moist. Adjust the humidity accordingly. Humidity should be around 90% at least at night when you are misting the enclosure, and should be allowed to dry out a bit during the day. If your gecko is having trouble removing skin that should be shed, you may put it into a small Tupperware-type container with a very moist paper towel (use lukewarm, but not hot, water). With a few small holes in the container for breathing, you can leave the gecko inside for about fifteen minutes (monitor it to make sure it's okay inside). When you take it out, you can attempt to gently rub away any stuck shed with your fingertips, or use a cotton swab.
If a gecko is dehydrated, if its dorsal (back) skin is gently rubbed or pinched, the skin will stay in peaks like a small mountain range. It is essential that your gecko be properly hydrated. Always provide clean water, and mist the gecko once a night. If your home is on the dry side, you may need to mist again in the morning. In cases of extreme dehydration (possibly after shipping a gecko in warm weather), some keepers have recommended using unflavored Pedialyte (electrolyte drink for children) as a rehydrator. Even if your gecko looks dehydrated, never attempt to force-feed liquids without the help of a veterinarian, as you may choke your gecko.
A tail which is bent near the vent to one side, or up over the gecko's body, is called "floppy tail syndrome" (sometimes "FTS" on various internet forums). Formerly thought to be caused by a diet lacking in calcium, it is now generally believed that floppy tail is brought on instead by geckos sleeping face-down on branches or enclosure surfaces so their tail will flop over their heads, or perhaps a weakness in the genetic line compounded with sleeping face-down. While this is now not thought to be an indication of poor health, it can lead to hip problems. If you find your gecko is sleeping upside-down often, try lifting it off of the surface it's on and setting it on a more horizontal surface. Also, always make sure your gecko has plenty of items in its enclosure for its tail to wrap around as it sleeps.
A tail which is wavy or zig-zagged can be an indicator of dehydration, or an early indicator of a diet lacking in calcium. Proper calcium is crucial for the crestie's health, and if left unchecked, a calcium-poor diet can lead to metabolic bone disease (or MBD). Signs of MBD include swollen legs and a soft or "mushy" looking jaw, as well as an inability to adhere to surfaces (though this last may also be signs of an impending shed). This disease can lead to fragile or broken bones, so it is incredibly important to make sure your gecko is getting a proper diet. This is another reason I highly recommend Repashy's food mixes - they take the guesswork out of balancing a gecko's nutritional needs. I recommend that a gecko which has suffered from - or is currently suffering from - MBD not be bred, especially in the case of the female.
You can attempt to check your gecko's calcium stores by rubbing the sides of its mouth with your index finger and thumb. In some cases, this will encourage the gecko to open its mouth. You can prevent the gecko from closing its mouth entirely by using a cotton swab with the cotton removed from both ends. The calcium sacs appear as two tiny white "bags" in the back of the gecko's mouth. Sometimes, in adult male geckos, the calcium sacs may appear to be small. This is apparently normal, as males do not need as much calcium in reserve as females do; the calcium goes into creating the shells of eggs. Please be aware that continually manhandling the gecko's mouth open can cause the animal a lot of stress. You might check the calcium levels once or twice a breeding season, but it isn't necessary to do so very often. If one eye suddenly grows larger than the other, or both eyes suddenly swell, it could be an indication of an infection, injury, or another issue. Take your gecko to the vet.
There are few currently-known parasites or diseases specific to crested geckos, but if you find your gecko is losing weight and acting much more sluggish than usual, its worth your time to get it tested for Endameba invades. I know little about this disease personally, so please read up on it at ciliatus.com here
Male or female? Adult males are very easily distinguishable from adult females. The males develop a rather prominent hemipenile bulge just behind their vent. This bulge may begin developing at around 5 months, but often it may take longer to be visible.
Earlier in their lifespans, however, they are a bit more difficult to tell apart. A juvenile male can be spotted by looking at the ventral (bottom) side of their rear legs. Sometimes, with the naked eye, a line of very small pre-anal pores can be seen. Sometimes, for younger animals, a jeweler's loupe of 10x or stronger can be used to determine whether pores exist or not. I prefer to make use of the cylindrical-type loupes which can be held in the eye socket with no hands, to give you two free hands to hold the gecko.
Females will show no true pores - however, at times, females have been known to show dented-looking scales that might be confused for pores. Keep in mind that very young geckos under six grams may be difficult to sex, even using a jeweler's loupe, though some breeders have become adept at seeing pores visible on even a four-gram gecko.
In the breeder/vendor world, females are generally a bit more expensive than males. This is because one male may serve as a mate for three or four females, and it is sometimes easier to keep females together in an enclosure than males. Females may have a smaller tendency to fight each other or protect their territory from other females; however, I have personally also witnessed females fighting amongst themselves even in large enclosures with a lot of room. It is always best to use caution when housing geckos of any sex together.
Adult females also may have a bit of a fatty deposit around the vent area, which may give the impression of a small hemipenile bulge. It is for this reason that I prefer to rely on loupes and other magnification. When raising juvenile geckos together, it is best to remove males from an enclosure to help prevent premature breeding as well as fighting. Males and females should be separated fairly early on, to prevent these issues. Generally I find it's best to start using single housing or housing females with females after about 4 or 5 months. However, depending on temperatures, your growth rates may differ from mine and you may need to separate earlier than I do. Overall, always keep an eye on your geckos and watch for tail nipping, weight loss, or other issues that may indicate that your geckos are fighting with each other and be prepared to separate them. If you don't have enough room to keep your geckos separate should the need arise, you should not get a second gecko!
You may notice that your gecko has a small whitish bump on either side of its vent. These are the cloacal spurs. Both males and females have them; they are thought to be used in mating to help the male align himself with the female. Some breeders insist that you can tell a male from a female by the size of the spurs, as males sometimes tend to have larger spurs than the female. However, this is not always the case - I have at least one female who has larger spurs than a male of the same size, and have seen at least one male with spurs that are almost non-existent. I am personally wary of breeders who insist that they know whether a gecko is male or female from the spur size alone.
Some species of geckos have been proven to be influenced by temperature-dependent sex determination (TSD). This means that incubating an egg at a certain temperature may yield a much larger chance of receiving females or males. To my knowledge, crested geckos have not yet been proven to have a temperature-dependent sex determination. If you encounter a breeder who says they have "incubated for male" or "incubated for female," please discuss the matter with them. It is in your best interest as a buyer, if you are looking for a particular sex, to talk to your breeder and ask which method they use to sex their geckos.
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